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Travelogue New Zealand

Nov 04
Sat

Tongariro Crossing

At 7.25 am we get picked up by the Tongariro Adventure Bus in front of the Discovery Lodge. We've been waiting together with an elderly couple from Australia. They'd wanted to walk the track 2 years ago, but it hadn't been possible because of rough weather conditions. The big bus is almost full – we are the last passengers to get on and we don't have to pick up anyone else. The drive's short. The bus races, leaving a huge cloud of dust behind, along a narrow gravel road to the carpark at Mangatepopo Hut.

This is the start of the Tongariro Crossing Track, which stretches across 18.5 km and ends at the carpark behind Ketetahi Hut where we get picked up at 4.00 pm. The track is estimated to be 6-8 hours. We need 7 1/2 hours, walking briskly but taking our time at the highlights and stopping every now and then to take photos.

Tongariro National Park Steep climb · more Tongariro NP pictures

The forecast was right and we are lucky with the weather. Although it's cloudy and sometimes foggy the light is very intense up here and the sun comes through from time to time. We go off together with the other bus passengers. In the beginning we walk as a group, which soon strings out because of different walking tempos and just gathers again during the longer breaks at the Emerald Lakes and Ketetahi Hut. The track varies, partly demanding, always fascinating.

Tongariro National Park South Crater, Mt Ngauruhoe · more Tongariro NP pictures

The path winds across older and younger lava flows, moss and tussock grass and, passing the Soda Springs, up the Mangatepopo Valley until a steep climb between Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro leads to the Mangatepopo Saddle. In the fog we cross the South Crater, which is actually not a real crater but a basin. It has probably been carved by glaciers and has since filled with sediment from the surrounding ridges. On the right, Mt Ngauruhoe shows its peak and then hides again in the fog – just like we saw it yesterday from the campground, but now we are much closer to the volcano.

After crossing the South Crater, another climb leads partially through snow and then across the narrow ridge to Red Crater. From here you have an impressive wide and heavenly view and you feel a little like Frodo (assuming you've seen the movie The Lord of the Rings).

Tongariro National Park Emerald Lakes · more Tongariro NP pictures

At the top you can stand on the ridge of the still active Red Crater and look down into it. The ridge leads to the summit of Red Crater (1886 m) and the highest point of the Tongariro Crossing. From here the track leads steeply down across lava gravel to three water-filled explosion craters, the turqouise shining Emerald Lakes. The hike continues across Central Crater which (like South Crater) is more a basin than a crater, and passes Blue Lake. This lake is sacred to the Māori and one should neither swim nor eat here. The track follows further along the flanks of North Crater. When we arrive at Ketetahi Hut, we are quite done but the track isn't yet: the descent is nice but steep and drags on for about 2 hours. Afterwards we are really happy to sit on the bus ;-)

Tongariro National Park Mt Ngauruhoe and Tongariro with Red Crater · more Tongariro NP pictures

Our muscle aches are soon forgotten. What remains is the memory of the most impressive hike I have ever done and an unforgettable experience.

Eatherway, we don't feel like cooking anymore. Instead we go for dinner in the Discovery Lodge restaurant and play pool with another couple from Germany who are looking forward to their hike tomorrow.

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Travelogue New Zealand

Tongariro Crossing